In 2011 I read a newspaper article about Patrick ('Paddy') Leigh Fermor. He had just passed away and the newspaper dedicated an article to his life, books and travels. I had never heard of him before.
Some time later, inspired by the article, I read a Time of Gifts. On foot in the middle of winter from Hook of Holland to Constantinople along the Rhine and Danube. At the age of 18, in a new continent with foreign languages, living on five English pounds a month. You might call it an adventure!
An adventure with a fascinating start as well, in my country ninety years ago. The images of Holland with windmills and clogs that everyone knows from old postcards and pictures. Patrick describes both the landscape and the themes of life that occupied people at the time. Because that's what it is for me.. a beautiful insight into Europe in the period between the two world wars. Patrick's sense of adventure was the impetus for his journey. His captivating and interested character led him to perform it.
In 2022 I decided to make a start to follow his itinerary in some way. I thought quite a while about how to do this. Motorized was not an option (too fast). Walking was not an option either (bad knees). What is a good way to follow an Englishman in a way that allows you to fully absorb the environment? Suddenly I knew. It should be a Brompton folding bike. English steel, easy to transport and fast (enough). The bicycle was purchased and adapted to my Dutch length. I was ready to go.
On my bike rides I try to follow Paddy's route as closely as possible and visit and admire the buildings, landscapes and works of art he describes. some of these buildings have disappeared or changed function. Sometimes they were destroyed during the war and rebuilt later. Surprisingly, however, many buildings and places he visited can still be found today.
My intention is to cycle a part of Paddy's route every year, and then report on it on this website. Following the Rhine and the Danube along the itinerary of A time of Gifts..
Jac Hakkens
Maarn, Holland